Booking a Sushi Counter in Kyoto: Checklist

A seat at a small sushi or kaiseki counter is one of the highlights of a trip to Kyoto. However, booking a sushi counter in Kyoto from abroad is not always as simple as filling in an online form. Many counters have only a few seats. Some take reservations only by phone in Japanese, and most have firm rules about cancellations and arrival times.

This checklist covers what to do before you book, what to tell the restaurant, and how to behave at the counter on the day. It works for most high-end counters in Kyoto, whichever one you have in mind.

Key takeaways

• Find out how and when your chosen counter takes reservations, and book as early as its rules allow.
• Tell the restaurant about allergies and foods you cannot eat when you book, not at the counter.
• On the day, arrive on time, skip strong perfume, and eat each piece of sushi soon after it is served.

Image by YujiMuraoka from Pixabay

Before you book: a checklist for a Kyoto sushi counter

• Find out when bookings open. Each restaurant has its own rule. Some open dates a month or more ahead, and popular counters can fill quickly. Check the restaurant’s website or booking page early in your trip planning.
• Choose a booking route. Some counters use an online booking site, some take phone calls only, and some ask for an introduction or a booking through a hotel. If you are staying at a hotel with a concierge, they may be able to help. Our guide to booking kaiseki in Kyoto covers these routes in more detail.
• Read the cancellation rules. Counter restaurants often prepare ingredients for the confirmed number of guests, so late cancellations and no-shows may carry a fee. Some ask for a credit card or deposit when you book.
• Tell them about allergies when you book. Kaiseki and sushi courses use dashi (stock, often made with bonito) and soy sauce in many dishes. If you have an allergy or do not eat fish, raw food, or alcohol, say so at the booking stage, and ask whether they can adjust the course.
• Check how to pay. Many restaurants accept cards, but some small places are cash only. Ask, or bring enough cash, so the bill is not a surprise.
• Fix your group size. With only a few seats, adding a person on the day may not be possible. Tell the restaurant as soon as anything changes.
• Plan your route. Restaurants in Gion and other old areas can be on narrow side streets with small signs. Check the location in advance and leave extra time.
• Dress neatly. There is rarely a strict dress code, but smart casual clothes suit a high-end counter better than beachwear or gym clothes.

On the day: counter etiquette checklist

• Arrive on time. At many counters, the course starts at the same time for everyone. Arriving a few minutes early is a good idea, and if you will be late, call the restaurant as soon as you know.
• Use the oshibori for your hands. You will usually get a wet towel (oshibori) when you sit down. At a nicer restaurant, it is polite to use it for your hands rather than your face.
• Skip strong perfume. Sushi and kaiseki depend on delicate aromas. As our kaiseki guide explains, strong fragrance can affect your own meal and other guests at the counter.
• Mind your chopsticks. Do not stand chopsticks upright in rice, and do not pass food from your chopsticks to someone else’s. Rest them on the chopstick rest when you are not using them.
• Eat sushi soon after it is served. Each piece is made to be eaten right away. You can eat nigiri with your fingers or with chopsticks.
• Ask before taking photos. Many counters allow photos of the food, but some do not. Ask first, and do not photograph the chef or other guests without permission.
• No tip needed. Tipping is not customary in Japan. Pay the way the staff ask you to.

Common mistakes to avoid

Relying only on a translation app for allergies. Apps are helpful for menus, but they can miss details such as whether a dish contains fish stock or wheat. If your restrictions are strict, explain them in Japanese in writing before the meal. Our article on when you need a restaurant interpreter in Japan covers the options.

Asking for big changes on the day. A sushi or kaiseki course is usually omakase, meaning the chef decides the menu based on the season. Small preferences are fine to mention, but large changes are much easier to arrange when you book.

Not checking the time limit. Some counters serve two seatings an evening. If you arrive late, the course may be shortened so that the next seating can start on time.

Our take on Kyoto counter dining

Kyoto’s top counters can feel intimidating at first. The rules about timing, scent, and booking may seem strict. In our view, they exist to protect a meal that is prepared for a small number of guests at the exact moment they are ready to eat it.

Most of the difficulty for overseas visitors comes before the meal, not during it: finding out how to book, getting a reply in Japanese, and explaining dietary needs. Once that is done, a counter meal is usually relaxed and friendly, and many chefs enjoy guests who show curiosity about the ingredients.

Booking on your own vs. with a local specialist

• On your own: you use online booking sites where they exist, or ask your hotel. This works well if your dates are flexible and you have no strict dietary needs. It is harder when a restaurant only takes phone calls in Japanese.
• With a local specialist: a bilingual specialist in Japan can call restaurants for you, check the cancellation and payment rules, and pass on dietary needs in Japanese. If you like, they can also join you at the meal to explain the dishes. Whether a seat is available is still up to the restaurant.

Through jpwork hub, you can find a vetted food and sake guide in Japan to help with restaurant bookings and to join you for a meal.

FAQ

Can a Kyoto sushi counter serve a vegetarian or gluten-free course?

It depends on the restaurant. Dashi and soy sauce are used in many dishes, so a fully vegetarian or gluten-free course can be hard for a traditional counter. Ask when you book, not on the day, so the chef can tell you what is possible.

How far ahead should I book?

Check each restaurant’s own rule. Some open bookings a month or more ahead and fill quickly, especially in spring and autumn. As soon as your travel dates are fixed, find out when your chosen counter opens reservations.

What if my train to Kyoto is delayed?

Call the restaurant, or ask the person who made the booking to call, as soon as you know. Counters often run on a set schedule, so a long delay may mean a shorter course or, in some cases, losing the booking.